Let’s take a little stroll around my neighborhood, shall we?
To be honest, I’m always a little uncertain what to call that neighborhood. The area that became my home turf seemed to sort of merge into a few different names based on where exactly you stood in a relatively small area. Is it Waterloo? Is it South Bank? I’m not really sure, but it’s easiest to say that my dorm was “by Waterloo Station,” because that’s exactly where it was, about a block away and in sight of the Odeon BFI IMAX theatre, which I never entered, but it served as a good visible landmark while I was still getting used to the area. It was also the site of a visit from Prince Harry the day before we arrived in London, which was a pretty disappointing scheduling mishap. Around the corner from this was Waterloo Station, the largest and busiest train station in London. Yes, Waterloo is pretty hectic for a home station, but it certainly made it easy to get around; there’s a lot to be said for having such great connectivity practically right next door. I must also note that right across from Waterloo Station was one of the most important parts of my time in London: my local chippie, Fishcotheque. I went for the kitchy name, and I kept going back for the delicious fish and chips, whether I sat at one of the tables in the back of the shop or got it to go and wandered down to the river to eat by the banks of the Thames.
Speaking of the banks of the Thames, I need to dedicate some time to discussing that very place. There are, of course, many scenic riverside spots where you can walk, enjoy good views, or sit on a bench to scarf some chips. This portion of the southern bank of the Thames deserves a bit of a special mention, however. The area of riverbank in my immediate vicinity is known as the Queen’s Walk. As the name suggests, the Queen’s Walk is a great spot for a stroll, with broad paved areas and lots of places to sit and admire the views. It’s a popular spot for afternoon walks, with its broad pavements and river views. It has entertaining curiosities such as a used books stall under Waterloo Bridge, a hot pink double-decker filled with boy band member lookalikes selling frozen yoghurt, and a riverside sand sculptor. In the evenings, it comes even more alive with people flocking to food stalls, restaurants and bars, (all with lovely outdoor seating areas with views of the river, of course!) and regular festivals set up in and near the South Bank Centre. It is also the home of the National Theatre, which produces over twenty new plays in around 1,000 performances a year. The London Studios used to also be a draw as fans could wait outside to see celebrities leave after filming the Graham Norton Show, but it has since closed.
Also in this area, Gabriel’s Warf Market, near the historic Gabriel’s Pier, is a combination of restaurants and boutiques, which are fun for a nose around when you’re out on a walk. This area also boasts views of St. Paul’s Cathedral across the river.
As you venture a bit further from Waterloo Station, you find even more places of note. If you go east, you will pass the Tate Modern. This modern and contemporary art museum is housed in the former Bankside Power Station, recognizable for its tall, square chimney. Keep going and you’ll reach Shakespeare’s Globe, a recreation of one of the theaters that housed Shakespeare’s company and produced his plays. The new Globe isn’t on the exact same spot as the original one, which burned down due to a malfunctioning canon during a production of Henry V (I guess they got their muse of fire after all), but you can still see plays there, in much the same way as during Shakespeare’s time. Tickets to the Globe are quite reasonable; seated tickets start at ₤25. You can even go to the Globe for just ₤5 as a “groundling,” but be aware that these tickets are for spots standing in the center of the theater in front of the stage, and Shakespearean plays can be lengthy!
Head west from Waterloo Bridge, and you will eventually reach the London Eye, Europe’s largest ferris wheel (is it still a ferris wheel when it’s that big?) which you are probably familiar with as a fixture of the stylized London skyline. Beside the Eye is the Waterloo Pier, where you can catch the water bus if you want to view London from the water as you make your way across town.
If you head south away from the river, past Waterloo Station, you’ll arrive at The Old Vic, a theater which was founded in 1818 and was the home for several different theatre troupes over the years before reopening in its current form in 1985. While I was in London, I went there to see The Crucible, starring Richard Armitage. It was a fantastic show and a wonderful experience, and it only cost ₤10! Going to the theatre in London can be a lot more reasonable than you might think. Check for less desirable seats, last-minute tickets, and discount vendors (I used ATG Tickets) for low-cost admittance to highly desirable shows.
To take part in a contemporary iteration of an ancient tradition, visit Lower Marsh Market. It sets up near The Old Vic and Waterloo Station and offers tasty street food options at reasonable prices. Though Lower Marsh Market seems thoroughly modern with its international food stalls and variety of shops, it actually has its origins in the 14th century, when it was called Lambeth Marsh. The road was renamed Lower Marsh in the late 1800s, when it was one of London’s largest markets. Lower Marsh Market is open six days a week, and is a great place to get a quick and relatively cheap bite to eat if you’re in the area. A couple of highlights during my time there were stalls stocked with huge vats of paella, fallafel, and gourmet macaroni and cheese. I’m sure the vendors change, but the joys of market food stay the same.
This is only the beginning of the things to see and do in this thriving area south of the river, but I’ll leave some discoveries (pastry shops! Indian food! graffiti tunnels!) for you to make yourself. If you’re unsure where to start, just head for the river. People always seem to end up at the banks of the Thames before the night ends.
